Sibenik is a beautiful old city about 2km up the Krka river from the sea. The old town is a warren of little streets and old buildings, and like many Croatian cities, it has been fortified extensively to repel the numerous attacks from Venice, Hapsberg, Ottoman and other forces over the past millennia. One of her most famous citizens was Ante Supuk who constructed the first system of production, transfer and distribution of alternation current in the world, transforming Sibenik into a modern city in the end of the 19th century. This power came from the hydro-electric plant mentioned below. The Cathederal of St James stands out above the city roofs and is famous for its row of 72 stone sculptures of common men and women's heads around the outside of the building. We also enjoyed the Monastery Gardens.
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Sibenik from the water with St James Cathederal. |
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We found this water fountain covered in moss with terrapin statues. We thought it was pretty cool. And then they moved! |
20km further up the river we arrived at the little town of Skradin. It was strange to be in a 50ft yacht and drive to a big marina so far from the sea!
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Motoring up the river we had 30m of water underneath us. |
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Skradin Marina - the top 1,5m is fresh water and then it is salty underneath. |
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The bell tower lit up at night. |
The town is quaint, but the main attraction is the access to Krka National Park. The Krka River has several cascades in it formed from Tavertine. Tavertine is created when calcium, precipitating from the lime rich water from the river water accumulates on living elements such as moss and algae. On the Krka River it forms pools with rims of tavertine and the water spills from pool to pool in a series of cascades. We headed up to Skradinski buk which is the most well known series of waterfalls in the Park. If you want a more detailed explanation of how the falls form mail Geoff and he'll wax lyrical about weak acid-base chemistry and the carbonate species...!?!
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Skradinski Buk. We arrived early before there were many people there - definitely recommended. |
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There are loads of cascades - really pretty. |
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Geoff and Mike explored some tunnels accessed directly east of the main falls. It was a fantastic find with young, and largely untouched caverns, stalactites and overhanging caverns formed from the now encrusted roots of the trees above! |
They have done a fantastic job of building nice walkways and the visitor information and displays are very interesting. The water from the cascades was used in one of the earliest hydro-electric plants in the world, and started being operational 2 days after the first plant on Niagra Falls in 1895. The plant was designed by the Croatian/American Nikola Tesla who's theoretical work formed the basis of wireless communication and the radio. There are also displays on using water for milling grain and mielies, in woollen fabric production and other trades. The cascades create a variety of habitats and there is rich diversity in aquatic insects, amphibians, birds and fish. There were large numbers of trout in the pools and it looked like you could just reach down and catch them with your bare hands! A series of walkways take you up the side of the cascades, around the top and back down to where you started. A swim in the river at the bottom of the cascades is a great way to round off your walk.
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Geoff on some of the boardwalks around the top of the falls. Here the water seems to run every which way - under trees, into pools, through vegetation, down cascades. And everywhere there are fish, frogs and dragonflies. |
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Some of the natural travertine dams. In the background are some of the old (industry) buildings which used water as their main power source. |
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Geoff, Lucy and Mike cooling off in the river. |
We were thoroughly impressed with the park and would highly recommend it it anyone visiting Croatia. The park can be accessed by cars or from Skradin you can catch the (free) parks board ferry or hire bicycles and cycle the 4,5km up the river. Once you're there, don't think that the cascades are all there is to see. There are many different options of ferry tours and hikes to additional cool places upstream. All these are included in your entrance fee, so pack a lunch as you may as well make a whole day of it!
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