Camargue taureau |
We really saw the "Horses on the Camargue" (see end of post) |
The Camargue is a mix of brine salt pans, marshland and agriculture - mostly rice, wheat and animal husbandry. There is also a huge salt works at Salin-de-Giraud, the practice of extracting salt there dates back to prehistoric man!
Salin-de-Giraud salt works |
The industrial salt pans have a surreal pink colour. |
The beaches have become semi-permanent caravan parks for 6 months of the year and we were astonished at the kilometres of vans set up on the beach.
Lucy on the beach with the camper vans and caravans stretching into the distance. |
Flamingoes have to be one of the oddest looking birds in flight! |
We are so glad we've lugged binocs around with us! |
Geoff and Lucy at the Parc Ornithologique |
The main town in the Camargue is Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer and there is a fantastic old church at the centre of the town that is very well worth a visit - even if just to the roof to see the view! A tiny spiral staircase leads up to the stone roof with a walkway all around it. The church itself looks a bit like it could have been a fortress with virtually no windows, a square cut finish to the top of the walls and 'burning oil slots' from the roof walk looking down the walls... or so we think!
Monsieur du Toit sur le toit........ |
The stunning view from the roof of terracotta roofs looking down to the harbour |
Neville would have struggled to fit in this staircase! |
Olive trees and limestone hills under an amazing sky. |
Horses on the Camargue
In the grey wastes of dread,
The haunt of shattered gulls where nothing moves
But in a shroud of silence like the dead,
I heard a sudden harmony of hooves,
And, turning, saw afar
A hundred snowy horses unconfined,
The silver runaways of Neptune's car
Racing, spray-curled, like waves before the wind.
Sons of the Mistral, fleet
As him with whose strong gusts they love to flee,
Who shod the flying thunders on their feet
And plumed them with the snortings of the sea;
Theirs is no earthly breed
Who only haunts the verges of the earth
And only on the sea's salt herbage feed-
Surely the great white breakers gave them birth.
For when for years a slave,
A horse of the Camargue, in alien lands,
Should catch some far-off fragrance of the wave
Carried far inland from this native sands,
Many have told the tale
Of how in fury, foaming at the rein,
He hurls his rider; and with lifted tail,
With coal-red eyes and catarcating mane,
Heading his course for home,
Though sixty foreign leagues before him sweep,
Will never rest until he breathes the foam
And hears the native thunder of the deep.
And when the great gusts rise
And lash their anger on these arid coasts,
When the scared gulls career with mournful cries
And whirl across the waste like driven ghosts;
When hail and fire converge,
The only souls to which they strike no pain
Are the white crested fillies of the surge
And the white horses of the windy plain.
Then in their strength and pride
The stallions of the wilderness rejoice;
They feel their Master's trident in their side,
And high and shrill they answer to his voice.
With white tails smoking free,
Long streaming manes, and arching necks, they show
Their kinship to their sisters of the sea-
And forward hurl their thunderbolts of snow.
Still out of hardship bred,
Spirits of power and beauty and delight
Have ever on such frugal pasture fed
And loved to course with tempests through the night.
The haunt of shattered gulls where nothing moves
But in a shroud of silence like the dead,
I heard a sudden harmony of hooves,
And, turning, saw afar
A hundred snowy horses unconfined,
The silver runaways of Neptune's car
Racing, spray-curled, like waves before the wind.
Sons of the Mistral, fleet
As him with whose strong gusts they love to flee,
Who shod the flying thunders on their feet
And plumed them with the snortings of the sea;
Theirs is no earthly breed
Who only haunts the verges of the earth
And only on the sea's salt herbage feed-
Surely the great white breakers gave them birth.
For when for years a slave,
A horse of the Camargue, in alien lands,
Should catch some far-off fragrance of the wave
Carried far inland from this native sands,
Many have told the tale
Of how in fury, foaming at the rein,
He hurls his rider; and with lifted tail,
With coal-red eyes and catarcating mane,
Heading his course for home,
Though sixty foreign leagues before him sweep,
Will never rest until he breathes the foam
And hears the native thunder of the deep.
And when the great gusts rise
And lash their anger on these arid coasts,
When the scared gulls career with mournful cries
And whirl across the waste like driven ghosts;
When hail and fire converge,
The only souls to which they strike no pain
Are the white crested fillies of the surge
And the white horses of the windy plain.
Then in their strength and pride
The stallions of the wilderness rejoice;
They feel their Master's trident in their side,
And high and shrill they answer to his voice.
With white tails smoking free,
Long streaming manes, and arching necks, they show
Their kinship to their sisters of the sea-
And forward hurl their thunderbolts of snow.
Still out of hardship bred,
Spirits of power and beauty and delight
Have ever on such frugal pasture fed
And loved to course with tempests through the night.
Roy Campbell
He died in Portugal in 1957
I can just hear Mike Yirrell reciting the lines to this poem, getting more and more excited as he worked his way through, only to end with a soft voiced final two lines as he tended to do. By the way, like the T-shirt you are wearing in the Ochre mines, Geoff. I still have the twin (non-identical).
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