Sunday, 9 November 2014

New discoveries of (mostly) old things

We spent a wonderful day making new discoveries at two of UBC's (University of British Columbia) museums - Lucy at the Museum of Anthropology and Geoff and Christopher at the Biodiversity Museum.

Although we'd been to the Museum of Anthropology in 2008, Lucy was keen to head back there to see some of the First Nations' artwork and carvings.  Much of the First Nations culture was  suppressed for most of the 20th century, often being banned, and much knowledge was lost.  The Museum of Anthropology tries to showcase some of the items recovered and is very much used as a learning and educational facility.
Some traditional totem poles.  These were carved generally to honour someone or some event and were erected outdoors between the village and the sea, generally in front of the relevant person's house.

First Nations people built large houses with a post-and-beam structure made from huge red cedar logs.  One house would accommodate a number of closely related families and was used for sleeping, cooking and for celebrations.  Many of the huge beams and posts were simply fluted like a Roman Column, but the wealthier or the higher the standing of the family, the more ornately the poles were carved.  These internal carved House Posts generally depicted the figures linked to a family's lineage.
 
(standing) A section of a House Post with a Bear holding a human figure
 
Another section of a House Post showing a Grizzly Bear with a frog in its mouth and a human wearing a woven hat between his paws.
One of a pair of Thunderbirds that adorned the inside of a house.
 
One object of the First Nations culture that fascinated Lucy was the Bentwood Box.  Such boxes were used for storing items in them in houses, for dry storing items during travel by sea, as cooking boxes and as mortuary boxes (storing the body of an important person until it had degraded) and were generally tied up with rope made from twisted Red Cedar bark. As a cooking box these water tight boxes were placed near to a fire and filled with water before having red hot stones dropped into them to bring the water to a boil to cook food placed in baskets in the water. 
 
With a typical volume of 100 litres they are made from a single plank of red or yellow cedar which had 3 grooves made on the one side of it.  The plank is then softened by steaming and bent to form 3 right angles.  The forth side is fastened with wooden pegs or smore commonly sewn up with red cedar twine or Western Hemlock roots.  A base is attached and a lid carved to fit.  Absolutely incredible!
An undecorated Bentwood Box

A large painted Bentwood storage box

Canoe construction was equally fascinating.  Much of the First Nations' culture revolved around the sea and canoes played a vital role both for fishing and for travel and trade. These canoes were typically made from a single log and could be as small as a single person craft or up to 100 foot long!
  Haida canoe making had waned during the early 1900's as clinker boats and other fishing vessels become more common and craftsmen transferred their skills to other industries. Canoes were generally built out of a single Red Cedar log and the best logs for large canoes were fine grained, had few knots in them, no twists and were 400 - 800 years old.

The construction process is as follows: The cedar log is shaped and hollowed.  Carefully the sides are adzed to an even thickness and the graceful lines of the canoe begin to emerge. Carvers used large elbow adzes for roughing out the basic shape.  Now-a-days axes and chainsaws are used for removing excess wood and to prepare the log for carving.  Finishing work is done with smaller bladed adzes.  The carved canoe is then prepared for steaming while rocks are heated in a nearby fire pit.  The canoe is partially filled with water and white-hot rocks are placed inside.  The hull is covered with a tarp to retain the steam.  Gradually the cedar hull softens.  Spreaders are inserted to stretch the canoe to its necessary width.  As the sides of the canoe flare outward, its ends rise.  The process adds strength and stability to the finished vessel.


An unadorned canoe with graceful lines.

In 1985, Haida artist Bill Ried set out with a team of carvers to create this 7,5m inland canoe.

The flared inside of the canoe.

No visit to the Museum of Anthropology is complete without some quiet time contemplating Bill Reid's  magnificent carving of The Raven and the First Men.

"The great flood, which covered the earth for so long, had at last receded and the sand of Rose Spit, Haida Gwaii (the Queen Charlotte Islands), lay dry.  Raven walked along the sand, eyes and ears alert for any unusual sight or sound to break the monotony.  A flash of white caught his eye and there, right at his feet, half buried in the sand, was a gigantic clamshell.  He looked more closely and saw that the shell was full of little creatures cowering in terror at his enormous shadow.  He leaned his great head close and, with his smooth trickster's tongue, coaxed, cajoled and coerced them to come out and play in his wonderful new shiny world.  These little dwellers were the original Haidas, the first humans." - Bill Reid

This fantastic sculpture was carved from a single piece of cedar.


Pictures barely do justice to this large and very emotive sculpture. Possibly it is just the size of this single piece of wood that first takes ones breath away!

The raven and the first men

Our original game plan had been for Geoff to look after Christopher while Lucy visited the Museum of Anthropology and then at a set time we would swop roles. However Geoff managed to find Liz Kleynhans and her partner Bill and they proceeded to the Biodiversity Museum. This museum is the amalgamation of smaller museums from five different departments including zoology, botany, forestry, fisheries and something else.
 
Christopher with the enormous Blue Whale skeleton in the background
 
The obvious draw card of the Museum is a 30m long skeleton of a blue whale that had beached in New Foundland in the 1980's. The carcass had been buried at the time, however once the museum was proposed and calls were being made for an interesting centre piece some of the faculty set off to excavate the remains, restore them and return them to be admired. Christopher had little idea of what he was looking at, but enjoyed seeing other specimens. He enjoyed the corals, and a stuffed baby black bear.

Most entertaining for Liz, Bill and Geoff however was to see him walk around floor displays clearly not understanding that the perspex glass that was underfoot would hold his weight. At one point he spotted some petrified tree stumps under the floor glass and tried to drop off the "edge" of the floor to get close to him. He kept reversing, and reversing, until he was suspended above them and when he realised this he quickly scrambled to the solid ground again. It was hilarious and kept us in stiches!
 
Christopher making his first attempt to climb into the display

Later in disbelief that he is suspended above the display and cannot get inside!

Liz posing next to herself in one of the Museum displays. We didn't realise you could be in a museum unless you were really old!

It was a wonderful day out at UBC. Geoff returned a few days later to explore their remarkable "Book shop" which apart from a fairly extensive selection of academic texts also sells hiking backpacks, musical instruments and electronic goods - basically everything a well rounded student should have access to! Geoff was after a UBC text called "The Golden Spruce" which is a popular science commentary on the logging industry in BC and its impact not only on the environment but also the various people and cultures that have developed because if and despite it.

Tuesday, 7 October 2014

The Stawamish Chief and Lighthouse Park

The Stawamish Chief is a 600m tall granite massif rising above Squamish, the self-proclaimed outdoors recreation capital of British Columbia. Considering the mountain biking, hiking, climbing, skiing, fishing and other sports that it is ideally suited to it certainly has a stake on that claim!

We had noticed a decent weather window and decided the night before to head through early in the morning to hike up the Chief. Geoff has never climbed it properly (i.e. with ropes), and longs one day to do so, but this time we were just excited to be on this very special mountain and play on granite!

Breakfast at Porteau Cove Provincial Park (if it looks familiar, we stopped here on our way to Keith's Hut too)
The Chief as viewed from Squamish. We climbed the right hand summit.
The front face of The Chief is very well known for its excellent granite rock climbing.  We walked up the back.
Christopher found a den beneath this cedar tree.
We started our trail at the 300m high Shannon Falls. Easily accessible from the road it is remarkable that we got this shot without a host of tourists in the background.
The first two thirds of the hike you head up through forest before emerging onto the exposed granite which has ladders and chains to aid in the slightly trickier bits.
The granite near the top was fantastic!
Looking directly north towards Whistler.
A 'friendly' chipmunck who wanted to share our lunch...
Looking across at the central peak.
The view from the summit of Howe Sound was well worth the effort. We ran out of time however and settled for summitting the first peak only. 
Late afternoon on Howe Sound as we drove back.
As we drove back it seemed we were destined to sit in afternoon traffic so, considering the beautiful late afternoon light, we headed down to Lighthouse Park in West Vancouver. Geoff had been here once before to climb the rocky crags at Juniper Point, but had never explored this lovely park.

Captain Vancouver, back in the 1790's decided to place a lighthouse at this point, named Atkinson Point, in order to warn other ships of the dangerous headland.  In order to ensure that the lighthouse was visible at all times he declared the area around the lighthouse a conservation reserve in order that the trees would remain a dark background to the white lighthouse.  As a result this park has some beautiful old growth forest, most noticeably many trees of enormous girth and thick mossy undergrowth.


Apart from the beautiful forest we were thrilled to get within a few meters of a pileated woodpecker who was digging beetle from dead trees. Christopher too was mesmorised by this completely foreign bird, tap, tapping away and dropping woodchips all around us.
A real log cabin!
The lighthouse at Atkinson Point
A peaceful sunset after a good hike.
Lion's Gate Bridge with Northand West Van on the left and Stanley Park on the right. It is an impressive structure, but even more impressive is the inevitable traffic. Cycling is certainly the quicker means of getting across the bridge for most of the day!

Chilliwack

Chilliwack is a city of ~80,000 people at the head of the Fraser River Valley. The mountains that border on the north and south of the valley converge just past the town. The town is a lively combination of services and agriculture and appears to be little understood by most other Canadians. It is passed quickly on the Trans-Canada highway and is known for its excellent corn, and distinct agricultural scent.

Geoff was sent on a Rotary Student Exchange here in 1999. He stayed with five families over the course of a year and attended one of the two local high schools - Sardis Senior Secondary. Geoff learnt quickly that within this town there is a distinct sense of community, pride and culture. In particular there is a strong culture of music within the community, whether in school bands, singing at Rotary Meeting, barbershop quartets or Jazz and Bluegrass festivals.

The qualities of community and pride seem, to us, to be lost in the bigger cities that we have lived in, but seem to remain intact in Chilliwack through the various institutions and community service organisations. 

The rotary exchange was a very influential and formative period of Geoff's life. He fondly remembers the role models of many individuals within the community that invested time in him, and gave him options of the kind of person he could be. 

As you mature you change and we find that people we have known in previous periods of our life become benchmarks. They remember you as you were and are a better indication of how you have changed than the people you see on a regular basis. It is always interesting to see how they have changed, and what changes they perceive in you.

We spent a week in the town touching base with the wonderful people we know in Chilliwack. We also had the opportunity to introduce them to Christopher and we visited some special places. 

Geoff and Marie Goldfinch, his first host mom. We used her house as our base and can attest to it being solidly kid-proofed by the time we left!

We attended a rotary meeting with the Chilliwack Rotary Club (there are three rotary clubs in the town). Playing in the Rotary "Discount Band" again - Geoff just slotted right back in! 
With Brett and Jo-Anne Klassen, classmates of Geoff's from school days and two of their three kids. 
Chilliwack has a very lively cycle culture and Geoff's school-mate Brett Klassen introduced us to all sorts of bicycles and associated accessories.  We took a ride along the Vedder River with Brett riding a dutch "bucket-bike". It effectively has a wheelbarrow bucket in front sufficiently large for three children to ride up front!  He introduced us to long wheel base bicycles - with a long pannier sufficient for two 80 litre pannier bags, or three children, or both. He had a phenominal 3m long flat bed trailer suited to his bicycles to allow him to transport larger items and lent us a Chariot which allowed us to cycle around with Christopher. Phenomenal!  We are so inspired to look at bicycles differently when we go back home. Chilliwack is a reasonably flat town being based on the valley floor which of course works in cyclists favour!  While in town we also discovered "fat-bikes" which are quickly becoming the next big thing for mountain biking - well at least here in Canada.

Along the Vedder River Trail. It had been an excellent run for the Sockeye Salmon that year and the fishermen were still out, despite the rain! Christopher is in the Chariot.
A happy little boy, fast asleep in his chariot!
One of the Rotary projects that had been underway when Geoff had been an exchange student was the development of a walking trail along the Vedder River. There were basic paths, but nothing suitable for cyclists, prams or wheelchairs. The trail is now typically 3m wide, gravel and level and sees on average 18,000 visitors a month. The trails make use of existing dykes and have extended them, while also providing side creeks for spawning and rearing of salmon and trout.  Despite some heavy rain we headed out to cycle the trail with Brett and Jo-Anne Klassen and two of their kids. Christopher did admirably well and we learnt how effective Cheerio's are at placating a hungry and cold child!

Rotary is responsible for driving and fundraising for a number of public projects, however we were interested to note that the City of Chilliwack has agreed to take over and maintain such projects in order for them not to be a burden on the club.

Since we were last in Chilliwack in 2008 the City has, through the influence and vision of a number of individuals and organisations in the community, built a new cultural centre. It is a wonderful facility boasting a beautiful and modern 575 seater theater, a smaller theater, a music academy, an art gallery, art workshops and many other assets. Of particular interest to us however were two memorials dedicated to individuals within the community who had meant a lot to Geoff.


With John Blessin at the Chilliwack Cultural Center in front of the water fountain memorial to Charlie and Mary Young. Charlie was saxophonist and a musical mentor to Geoff. He passed away earlier this year aged 94.

Also up in the Cultural Center is a memorial to Ron Goldfinch who played a piviotal part in the development of the center and particularly in fundraising for a concert grand piano. Ron was also Geoff's first host dad and teased him mercilessly!
Mt Cheam (pronounced chee-am) is a 2,100m peak which rises prominately above Chilliwack. Every time we are in town we try to ascend it, however due to poor weather conditions we didn't make it in 2008. The common access is via an old logging road above Chilliwack River which takes you to 1,400m. You then continue on foot through alpine meadows and eventually screed to the summit. The drive up is half the adventure (and half the time!) and needs to be done in a high clearance vehicle, preferably with 4x4 capability due to the steep grades and loose gravel. A friend took us up with his 1970's short wheel base jeep which was lots of fun. Christopher only managed to get half-way up the hike before the ripe and abundant blue-berries side-tracked him and Lucy, while Geoff, Brett and Lance continued to the summit.  It was a terrific day out up on the mountain!


Brett and Geoff on the summit of Mount Cheam
Jones Lake was part of a reserve managed by BC Parks. Aparently apart from free camping they would encourage folks to stay up there by offering them free firewood! Not so any longer!

A happy boy stuffed with blue berries in the alpine meadows

The view down the meadows from above. The colours where quite spectacular. In the background is the massif of Mt. Baker (3,300m) in the States, in the foreground are low lying blue berry bushes... Yum!!!

Hiking through the glorious meadows.

On the trail with Lady Peak in the background.
Lance is a friend of Brett's who joined us for the hike and drove us up the rough route to the start of the hike. Christopher was very happy to be in a loud vehicle on a bumpy road!

Settling in for the hour long drive down to the tarred road. Once the sun had gone down it was going to get quite chilly. Note that little boys can happily fend of cold with a blueberry bagel in each hand!

We were based at Marie Goldfinch's place for the duration of our stay in Chilliwack. Behind their house is a small farm run by Bill and Renee Higginson. Geoff had got to know the Higginsons during his exchange and years later had joined them for a trip to the famous Calgary Stampede.  Bill was minding his delightful granddaughter, Harper, and Christopher and her got on pretty well.  Bill introduced us to his sheep and the two toddlers were soon tearing into bales of hay to feed them.  Christopher was very content to play amongst the old farm equipment and in particular enjoyed an old John Deer lawnmower!



Christopher and Harper Higginson feeding the sheep
'Mowing the lawn'
Happy warm fall days in Chilliwack

End of September swim in Chilliwack. The water was about 18 degrees and Christopher was very happy to be in the water. This is good news with summer approaching.
We spent most of our time catching up with contacts of Geoff's - host parents, siblings, councillors, friends, etc.  We didn't manage to get photos with all of them, but it was really lovely to see them and to catch up with them again.

Herm and Brenda Kovits.  Herm was Geoff's councilor when he was on exchange.

Perfecting his walking and stair climbing!  We lost track of how many times he went up and down!
With Marie Goldfinch. 
With Joy St John
These Chariots are terrific. We'll be on the lookout for them back home.

Father and son riding through town

With Sam and Liz Dunbar



The obligatory jumping photo outside the Goldfinches house.

Like the name Chilliwack (which means Meeting of the Waters), many names are Anglicized from First Nations 
The mighty Fraser River


Dave and Gil Alford had lent us their van for the duration of our stay in Canada. It was a huge help. Thanks so much!